Outside Stonehenge, a Walker’s Paradise—With Falcons, Too

(Bloomberg) -- At the moment, all of our plans are on hold. But that doesn’t mean we here at Bloomberg Pursuits aren’t planning the experiences we’ll rush out to enjoy when it’s safe to do so. We’re sharing our ideas with you in the hopes that they will help inspire you—and we’d love to hear what you are daydreaming about, too. Send us your ideas at daydreams@bloomberg.net, and we’ll flesh some of them out for this column.

As days turned to weeks now to months of “stay at home,” anybody would be itching to get outdoors. For longtime Bloomberg editor Karen Toulon, there’ll be no better way to stretch her legs and breathe some sighs of relief than walking the British countryside.

Wherwell Village looks like the setting for a British murder mystery on Netflix. One of the focal points is Cow Common, an area populated with the namesake animals and just a few meters away from timber-framed, thatched cottages in which many Wherwell residents live.

The village is set in the heart of the 250 square miles of the Test Valley in western Hampshire. This part of southern England is best known for the prized salmon and trout that are fished out of the eponymous Test River that bisects Cow Common. In the summer months, the calm shallows can appear inviting, but the water is typically icy. Paddling about is an act of bravery best left to children and dogs.

But the region is also popular with the walking set. And that’s what has me dreaming now. As every move I make must be Covid-19-measured and masked, I long for my Wherwell walks, which required no massive pre-planning and scant special gear, apart from comfortable shoes.

My quiet infatuation with Wherwell started 26 years ago, just before my sister got married. She’d left her London life and moved—about 65 miles southwest to be precise—to the little village of fewer than 500 inhabitants. My sister wasn’t the first bride to seek out this place. Wherwell was the site of a Benedictine Abbey founded in 986 AD by Elfrida, the widow of Saxon King Edgar. Elfrida took to the abbey at the end of her life to try to make amends for murdering both her first husband, Ethelwolf, and her son-in-law, King Edward.

The abbey was destroyed by King Henry VIII in 1539, but if I leave my sister’s paddock, make a few turns and walk a bit, I’ll run into the Victorian Gothic Revival parish church that sits on the site of the original abbey church. The St. Peter and Holy Cross Church has a long, low-slung roof and is surrounded by a beautiful churchyard with a 19th century mausoleum and medieval stone carvings to explore. Inside are several artifacts from the original abbey, including a 1226 effigy of Abbess Euphemia.

But there’s more to explore than mere walking allows. In less than 25 minutes via the A303 highway, I’ll arrive at Stonehenge, the prehistoric ring of standing stones, some weighing as much as 25 tons. Construction began about 5,000 years ago and continued for more than 1,500 years. Visitors have been roped away from the stones since 1977 to minimize damage.

To be honest, that’s fine by me. My family and I always drive past Stonehenge, preferring the Danebury Iron Age Hill Fort and nature reserve, only 17 miles further down the road. The Danebury fort was built about 2,500 years ago, and it’s not cordoned off. I’d walk along its ramparts overlooking the countryside and imagine 300 people living here, trading wares and fighting off invaders.

Another town with history is Winchester, a 20-minute drive away from Wherwell. It’s famed for its ancient Winchester Cathedral, one of the largest in Europe. It’s home to the vaunted 13th century, gorgeously illustrated Winchester Bible. Until 1066, Winchester also served as the capital of England. Not far from the Cathedral, the Royal Oak pub has been around long enough to recall those days: It was founded in 1002 and claims to be the oldest bar in England. In other words, it’s perfect for lunch. Specialties at Royal Oak are such pub classics as sausage and mash (as in mashed potatoes), a satisfying salt-beef burger, and—for the vegetarians—another burger made from chickpeas, red peppers, and sweet hoisin sauce.

Closer to Wherwall, Stockbridge is set on the Test River with a quaint High Street populated with country clothing haberdashers, a store for newspapers and a pint of milk, and some charming places to eat and stay. The Three Cups Inn was a stagecoach house in its 1400s heyday. Today it’s a cozy dining spot serving unfussy fare with a focus on local and seasonal ingredients such as pan-seared sea bream and fried, pickled local mushrooms. In keeping with its stagecoach roots, the Three Cups also has eight cozy rooms done up in British country decor; an overnight stay is certainly tempting. In fact, if I didn’t have my sister’s place so close, there are many overnight options to choose among in Stockbridge. 

Down the road, The Greyhound on the Test traces its roots to the 1800s and offers seven rooms in the main building and three in its cottage, outfitted in colorful fabrics. There are also such activities as clay pigeon shooting and a fine-dining restaurant. The menu includes maple glazed short ribs with horseradish dumplings and rare-breed pork cutlet with roasted quince and young vegetables. 

Even more decadent, many stately homes have been restored and converted into spas and retreats. The Lainston House is a 17th century former palace of King Charles II. It’s now a luxury hotel located just outside of Winchester. Set on 63 acres, its panoramic views include a mile-long avenue of lime trees and a sundial garden.

I know Lainston House, because that’s where my sister held her wedding reception. It’s changed since I visited 26 years ago. Now there’s a Season Cookery School, with classes for children, experienced foodies, or team-building work colleagues. Courses include “Slice Right: Knife Skills,” “Up, Up and Soufflé” and “Veganuary.” 

There’s also the opportunity to try falconry with the resident beasts: a Chilean Blue Buzzard Eagle, a Harris Hawk, and fluffy owls. I can’t wait to add “hang out with bird of prey” to my walking routine—holding the weight of the raptor on my gloved arm, seeing the look in its eye, and feeling the freedom of the blast of air from its flapping wings on my unmasked face.  

As I daydream about the simple pleasures of walking, I’m reminded of the Alzheimer’s Association, whose necessary work leads the way toward ending Alzheimer’s and all other dementia conditions. I just lost my mum to Alzheimer’s a few weeks ago; families such as mine depend upon the association’s care, support, and research. Please join me in supporting them.

Have a daydream of your own? Let us know, and it may feature in a future column. 

©2020 Bloomberg L.P.