Watch Experts Pick the Best Timepieces to Invest in Right Now

(Bloomberg Businessweek) -- Physical boutiques that were shuttered during the pandemic are only now reopening, but enthusiasm for classic watches remains high, by all accounts. As is the case in any economic slowdown, this can be a great time to pull the trigger and buy.

But what to choose? We asked top watch experts to tell us which timepieces they would invest in right now, either on the secondary market or new—and why. They told us what they think will resonate with collectors and make a great trade-in down the road.

As Benjamin Clymer, the founder of the watch enthusiast site Hodinkee, says: “Ultimately, now is an amazing time to buy a watch, because you, like me, probably have more time in front of a computer than ever before, and that means you have the chance to spend hours reading about everything, new and old.”

Clymer advises us to use the same philosophy we’d apply to searching out a classic car or piece of art. “Don’t be afraid to go against the grain and choose something that makes you—and only you—happy,” he says. “That, to me, is the sign of a great watch.”

Omega Speedmaster

Eric Wind, owner, Wind Vintage: We are living in difficult times, so rather than buying a six-figure watch, I would consider adding a vintage Omega Speedmaster to your collection. To me, the Speedmaster is about the most undervalued watch on the market. Last year was the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 11 moon landing, and there was a lot of interest in Speedmasters—but that’s quieted down a bit. I recently sold a Ref. 145.022-71 with an unpolished case and attractive dial that Omega confirmed was produced in 1973, for less than $4,500—well under the price of a new Speedmaster. With technical excellence and cultural relevance wrapped into one, the Speedmaster is a worthy part of any collection.

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus

Gary Getz, corporate strategy expert, collector, and member of the Academy of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève: I’m looking at watch purchases that allow me to combine my interest in small independent watchmakers, who are particularly vulnerable today, with some confidence in longer-term value. One great example is a watch I have on order, the Chronomètre Contemporain from young independent star Rexhep Rexhepi. It’s a real jewel of arts and crafts, from its deep-black fired-enamel dial to its beautiful movement finishing. Its classical shape gives me confidence that it will be an enduring favorite. And Rexhep is not only the “it” boy of watchmaking these days but a splendid guy!

I recently bought an Odysseus, the first-ever steel sport watch from A. Lange & Söhne. It’s a piece that represents the spirit of the times, with an eye to the future. It’s extremely solidly made and wearable for both work and play. In the vintage world, I’d suggest a search for some possibly underappreciated pieces from blue-chip makers. One example of that is the Patek Philippe Ref. 1526, a 1940s-era watch that was the first perpetual calendar wristwatch made in series by any producer. Its diameter is a bit small, and it’s been undervalued at auction for that reason. But it’s terrifically important, and I believe history is on its side.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Rebecca Ross, watch specialist, Christie’s Inc.: In the present market, I would advise investing in the iconic models. They can be solid investments but—more important—are enjoyable to wear and own. Not only can vintage watches hold a rich history and heritage of the brand, but they can often hold supreme value over modern timepieces.

A special example comes to mind: the coveted Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 5402 “A-Series.” Audemars Piguet introduced the Gerald Genta-designed stainless-steel model in 1972, in a series of 1,000 watches. A second series of 1,000 Royal Oak “A” serial numbers was produced before they progressed to the “B” series, “C” series, and so on. This early “A” series of 2,000 Royal Oaks have their edition numbers engraved on the casebacks.

I would also recommend the more obscure timepiece collectibles such as rare pocket watches, coin watches, and clocks. Timepieces not worn on the wrist, but instead used to adorn the home, are welcome while we spend more time indoors.

F.P. Journe Résonance

Paul Boutros, head of watches, Americas, and senior vice president of Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo: Right now, I would recommend buying pre-owned Résonance watches by the independent brand F.P.Journe. It was the world’s first wristwatch to use the resonance phenomenon, and one of the most important and innovative of the 21st century. It’s powered by two independent movements integrated into one, with separate escapements that, when in motion, beat in synchrony. Natural resonance evens out the discrepancies in their beat rate, causing them to keep the same time while permitting even greater timekeeping accuracy.

Journe’s Résonance is also a superb and practical dual-time watch, as all versions are fitted with two separate dials and hands. Now discontinued, the Résonance evolved over three generations since its launch in 2000. My top choice would be the brass movement versions produced until 2004. (Journe began using rose-gold movements across models from then until 2019.) The company will soon release an all-new Résonance, which will likely make the discontinued versions especially sought-after.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Benjamin Clymer, founder and chief executive officer, Hodinkee: The watches I’ve been most excited about over the past 12 months or so are seldom vintage. I would instead look to contemporary classics—watches made in the last 30  years or so that are currently out of production—or completely modern watches that have meaning to you. In the first category, I think early examples of A. Lange & Söhne’s watches have tremendous technical and artistic value and end up being solid investments. Look for special examples of the Lange 1 and Pour Le Mérite Tourbillon. 

Likewise, I think Vacheron Constantin remains the most overlooked watchmaker in the “holy trinity” [Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet] and has created some stunning contemporary watches. Look at early Overseas, which are hand-wound chronographs using Lemania calibers and ultrathin minute repeaters. Trust me when I tell you that one day the steel sports watch craze will end, and you’ll be much happier paying for watchmaking instead of hype.

At slightly lower price points, looking at watches for everyday wear, you should throw anything but true love right out the window. Buy what makes you happy, because these are the watches you’re going to keep for the rest of your life—the watches you’ll wear in truly the most precious moments and pass down to your children and grandchildren. Have a look at Omega’s incredible Master Chronometer-certified sports watches, like the Seamaster and new Speedmasters. The work coming from Japan’s Grand Seiko rivals many of the big names from Switzerland. And the best part about them? They’re readily available at your authorized dealer.

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