Sapphire Watches Are Pricey, Hard to Make, and Perfectly On-Trend

(Bloomberg Businessweek) -- There’s a reason why only eight of Greubel Forsey’s sapphire double-tourbillon timepieces exist, and it isn’t merely a matter of its $1.1 million price. Sapphire is the second-hardest material known to man, next to diamonds, and brutally challenging to cut and finish with any artistry. Watchmakers run a risk, down to the last polish, that it will shatter and waste hundreds of man-hours of work. More and more brands, however, are testing the material’s limits, which means a sapphire case is more accessible than ever. They’re still not cheap—you’ll spend north of $60,000 as opposed to seven figures—but you’ll get a piece that, for now, is a rarity in watches..Bell & Ross BR-X2 Skeleton Tourbillon Micro-Rotor.The simplest-looking of our trio, this watch from Bell & Ross’s more experimental BR-X line has the same circle-within-a-square design of the brand’s signature BR 01 model. The mainplate of its self-winding flying tourbillon movement is sandwiched between two sapphire plates that act as its casing—one upfront, and one fitted as a caseback. Four screws secure the plates, with hidden gaskets that also make it water-resistant to 50 meters (164 feet). The see-through case is 42.5 millimeters across with a skeletonized dial and a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. It’s available in an edition of 99. $64,900; bellross.com.Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Sapphire.Three years after their initial million-dollar foray, the Swiss watchmaker brought a (nominally) more approachable model to market in January. A power reserve indicator rests in the upper right quadrant of its skeletonized dial; an open portion exposes a pair of inclined balances that work in symmetry to deliver accurate timekeeping and counteract the effects of gravity on the watch’s running stability. The sapphire crystal case, measuring 43mm in diameter and 13mm thick, gives the watch the feel of floating on your wrist. Only 11 examples will be produced. $695,000; greubelforsey.com.Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Sapphire.Although it wasn’t the first brand on the sapphire bandwagon, Hublot has embraced the material with a fervor so far unmatched by its rivals. In 2016 it released a clear sapphire version of its signature Big Bang collection followed by red and yellow iterations. This April, Hublot introduced one in translucent blue. The case measures 45mm in diameter and 15.7mm thick and comes with a strap made from blue rubber. The brand, a manufacturing powerhouse, is capable of producing 250. $85,000; hublot.com.To contact the editor responsible for this story: James Gaddy at jgaddy@bloomberg.net.©2019 Bloomberg L.P.

Sapphire Watches Are Pricey, Hard to Make, and Perfectly On-Trend

Three models with crystal clear cases that don’t cost $1.1 million.

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