(Bloomberg Businessweek) -- Concerns about chemicals in skin care are driving consumers to overhaul their medicine cabinets with products whose packaging features an endless parade of “free” buzzwords: fragrance-free, cruelty-free, paraben-free, phthalate-free.
A segment of the market that continues to grow steadily is “nontoxic” deodorants. A report published in June by Future Market Insights estimates the size of the aluminum-free deodorant industry at $1.18 billion by yearend, and beauty behemoths are already adjusting. In 2017, Procter & Gamble Co. purchased stick startup Native for $100 million; the same year, Unilever NV bought Schmidt’s and is releasing all-natural deodorants developed with the likes of Jane Goodall and Justin Bieber.
But do they work?
Natural deodorants aren’t antiperspirants—they kill the stink but not the sweat. If you want to do the latter, “the best known method is using some type of aluminum salt that mixes with sweat to form a gel plug in the opening of the gland,” says Clarisonic co-founder and skin expert Robb Akridge, who received his Ph.D. in microbiology. Studies have suggested that the absorption of aluminum compounds found in antiperspirants may be linked to breast cancer, but the American Cancer Society says there is “very little scientific evidence to support this claim.”
Skin irritation is the more common reason to switch away from synthetic fragrances and other chemical compounds, says Richard Firshein, a leading expert in integrative medicine. “Many of these natural products cause fewer problems for my patients,” he says.
According to Maria Corbiscello, founder and president of Studio MC2—a product development company that’s worked with LVMH, Revlon, and Estée Lauder—there are common ingredients in effective natural deodorants. “Some type of powder is essential (i.e., baking soda, kaolin clay, cornstarch, or arrowroot) to not only absorb wetness, but also kill bacteria that causes odor.”
A panel of men and women’s armpits, ranging from hairy to fuzz-free, were assembled to test the newest releases to see if they could withstand biking, working out, and partying on the beach. Here are five that stood out for making sure we didn’t.
Ursa Major Base Layer
Instead of baking soda, this scent-free deodorant uses hops and a probiotic enzyme to kill odor, while kaolin clay sops up moisture. It’s effective during regular exercise but may not be up to an extra-long workout. $18; ursamajorvt.com
Modern Botany
Eucalyptus, lemon tea tree oil, and witch hazel neutralize odor, but the alcohol may sting armpits after a fresh shave. The blend of sandalwood, cedar, and vetiver is overwhelming at first, but it dries to a pleasing herbal musk. $30; thedetoxmarket.com
Corpus Third Rose Natural
This plant- and mineral-based formula was so efficient at keeping our testers dry, they were convinced it contained aluminum. And the rose, Italian mandarin, violet, and cedar root scent felt particularly refined. $22; corpusnaturals.com
Type:A
This workhorse uses moisture-absorbing tapioca starch, cornstarch, and arrowroot powder in an application that is thick but clean. The baking soda used in its sweat-activated formula may irritate sensitive skin. $10; typeadeodorant.com
Agent Nateur Uni(Sex) Nº5
This stick’s hand-blended vetiver, rose, sandalwood, and cedar are pungent upon opening, but the scent magically dissipates soon after application. The thick baking soda and coconut-oil formula kept our tester fresh during sweltering nights of grown-up fun. $21; violetgrey.com
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